If your bird bites you, there is something he wants you to know. He may have tried to tell you with signals that you did not understand. Prevent bites by learning what comforts your bird. Learn to read your bird’s body language (pin pointed pupils, raised neck feathers) and do not handle your bird when you see these signs unless it is an emergency, in which case you can use a towel or potholder and be protected. 

PLAYFUL BITING: A bird's beak is his hand. Your bird may not know that his bite is painful--since it doesn't hurt him to bite you. If you react suddenly, your bird may actually enjoy the reaction. A baby may bite when he is hungry or be so comfortable with handling that he tries to wrestle with your hands as if you are another baby bird. Redirect your bird’s playful attention to a appropriate toys. Teach your bird that he can get attention without biting by offering attention when he is playing appropriately on his own.

HORMONAL AGGRESSION: Birds are affected by increasing daylight hours in late winter. The change in light stimulates them to look for a nesting site and a mate. Chewing behavior, territorial behavior and bravado are common around Valentine's Day. Since it is uncommon for veterinarians to spay and neuter birds, hormonal behavior is something that bird owners must live with. Offer your bird more chewing material, food puzzles and exercise during the late winter and early spring. 

TERRITORIAL DEFENSE: Your bird may bite when you reach for him on a perch or inside his cage. Any bird may bite when you reach into a nest box. If your bird is not a breeding bird you should remove the nest box. If your bird is a breeding bird then handling the bird near the nest box is something you should only do in an emergency. 

CONTROL: Your bird may bite you to keep you from interacting with other family members. Encourage a more positive relationship between your bird and others by expecting your bird to spend time with them. If this is not possible, avoid greeting people or other pets when your bird is close enough to bite.  

BITING TO GO BACK TO THE CAGE: You may have tried putting your bird in his cage as a punishment for biting. Although birds are social animals there are times when they prefer to be inside their cage. If your bird learns that biting is a way to get taken back to the cage, he may bite to let you know he wants to be returned to his cage. If you speak a certain phrase each time you take your bird back to the cage, talking birds begin to say the phrase when they want to go back. You can also be more aware of your bird's tolerance for activity and take him to his cage before he is agitated or frightened. 

CONFUSED BITING: Another cause for bird bites is confusing motion from you, especially quick movements. After being offered a hand that is taken away, a bird may grab the hand and hold on tightly the next time. If you are reluctant to allow your bird to climb on you because he has bitten you, teach him to step onto a perch instead.  

TRAINING YOUR BIRD NOT TO BITE: If your bird is not tame or has become difficult to handle, daily training sessions will allow you to work toward a trusting relationship with your bird. Start with the taming sessions before proceeding with the plan below.  If your bird is usually fine but is biting on occasion there are several things you can do to curb this behavior. 

First, trim his flight feathers or have your veterinarian do this if you have not done it before. They will grow back in about a month. Birds that can fly consider the whole house their "nest area" which they defend even from family members. Birds are more willing to bite when they can fly because they can retreat immediately and avoid any retaliation for their behavior. 

Introduce your bird to a perch, a piece of wood that provides a stable foothold for your bird's size.  While your bird is on his play area each day, teach him to step onto the perch using the same statement each time, such as “time to go” or “up”. Most birds will step onto any thing that is pressed firmly against their breast and is higher than the perch they are on. If your bird is frightened by the perch, go to daily lessons before proceeding. 

You may want to adjust the height of the cage and play area so that any offer of your hand or a perch is a chance to climb higher. You can stand on a step stool when you approach the bird if the cage can't be adjusted.  If your bird has been biting, he should not be permitted to ride on your shoulder. 

It's important that you not let your request result in crashing around the cage. It's worth purchasing a cage with a large door to make this easier. When the bird successfully steps onto the perch, move the perch so that he can step back on to the cage or play gym he came from as a reward. Gradually use the perch to move the bird from one play area to another. Have special treats ready in the play area so your bird will look forward to riding on the perch. With repetition your bird will learn to trust your offer and respond appropriately to your command to step onto a perch. Many talking birds learn to say “step up” to request play time.  After the bird is comfortable stepping onto a perch from his play area, you may introduce the perch inside his cage.