CAGES: A cage is the most important piece of equipment you will invest in for your bird so buy the best made cage you can afford. A bird without a cage is not safe. If you do not introduce your bird to a cage, he may not accept one later and birds live a long time. 

Size: A small bird needs room to fly and a large bird needs room to spread his wings and climb. Baby birds, need a raised floor until they are strong enough to perch at heights without falling. Choose wire strength and spacing that is safe for the size of your bird that will keep other pets out. The cage should not force the bird to perch at floor level or allow the bird to climb out of your reach. Horizontal space is more useful to the bird, especially small birds that fly. A very tall, narrow cage may not provide a bird with enough space because birds are not likely to climb down to the bottom of the cage. 

Features:

	Some cages have spaces between wires that taper. This can be dangerous for your bird’s toes and neck.
	Horizontal bars are easier for a bird to climb than vertical bars. Round cages can damage your bird’s feathers and do not offer a comfortable corner in which to retreat when your bird is ready to sleep.
	Look for doors that allow you to access food bowls from outside the cage and a large front door so you can reach all areas of the cage without straining.
	Some cages open at the top and some come with an extra pan so that the cage top can be used as a play area.
	Whether the cage can be dismantled for moving and cleaning depends on the size of your doorways and how often you will move the cage.
	Grates keep birds from reaching the soiled bottom of the cage but they also require extra attention to keep clean.

PLACEMENT AND COVERS: Place the cage in an area of your house where your bird will get attention but don't place it in the path of nonstop activity. A view out a window can be interesting for a bird if the window does not create a draft or direct sun from which he cannot escape. Be sure your bird cannot reach curtains or cords that he could pull into his cage.

Birds require 8 - 10 hours of sleep each night and usually rest whenever it is dark. If you use a cage cover, choose one that will be safe if your bird chews it and be sure to uncover your bird during daylight. 

OUTFITTING THE CAGE: You should provide at least two perches of varied types to exercise your bird's feet and encourage movement. Situate perches so that food will not be soiled by bird droppings. Provide occupational toys but leave plenty of room in the cage for your bird to flap and climb about. Most birds prefer to sleep toward the top and rear of the cage. Be sure the highest perch is comfortable for your bird.

You will need bowls for food and water. Bowls with high backs and covers help keep food in and droppings out. However, they're hard to see into from outside the cage. Birds prefer the bowls up high for easy access. However, bowls closer to the bottom keep spilled food inside the cage. You can attach fabric skirts or metal aprons to the cage to catch spilling food, also.

Water can be dispensed in a hanging bottle to keep it clean. This is sometimes necessary if birds bathe in their water or make "soup" with their food and bedding. Hang the bottle above a water bowl for a few days and allow it to drip. Be sure your bird uses it regularly before removing the bowl. Be sure the water bottle is functioning and change the water inside the bottle often to keep it fresh. Plastic bottles often get punctured by inquisitive beaks but glass bottles break if their hardware is loosened by beaks. Lixit offers hardware for attaching wide mouth bottles with a bolt that is pretty difficult for birds to remove. 

BEDDING: If you use a cage grate that prevents your bird reaching the bedding, you can use any bedding material you like. If not, newspaper is convenient. If your bird tears up the paper buy shredded paper or tear it up yourself. You might also try wood shavings or corncob. The only disadvantage is that some birds eat them which can be harmful and when they get damp, they grow mold.

PLAY AREA: Your bird will need a playground or climbing tree where he can spend time out of the cage. Look for products with secure footing for your bird that will be easy to clean and repair. Avoid products with nails or staples. Try to find a play area that your bird can't climb off of while still allowing you to reach him easily. You can make one of your own with a Christmas tree stand and a pesticide free limb from a nontoxic tree.

CARRIER: You should purchase a carrying case to take your bird to the vet or transport him out of the house in an emergency. A cat carrier works well for medium sized birds. A folding wire dog cage can be used for larger birds. There are carrying cages made specifically for birds, as well. A cotton diaper or shredded newspaper in the bottom of the carrier will give the bird some secure footing while riding in the car. Placing a perch inside the carrier allows it to serve as a temporary cage for travel.

On short trips, it is not necessary to put water in the carrier. On long trips, water and food should be offered throughout the day. Be sure not to open the carrier in the car unless the windows are closed and you are parked because it is too easy for a bird to impede your driving or escape. The bird is also safer in the event of an auto accident or breakdown if he is inside a carrier. Of course we all know not to leave pets unattended in cars, especially in extreme weather.

MAINTENANCE: Change food and bedding daily. Always check that a "full" bowl contains fresh food and not just shells. Wash the cage, perches, and food containers with mild soap each week. Water bottles must be disinfected each week. Be sure all is dry before placing the bird back into the cage.

DIET: The most difficult part of caring for birds is meeting their nutritional needs. Traditionally, pet birds were fed a mixture of grain seeds. However, in the wild, birds eat fruit, vegetables, and insects and only subsist on grains during the winter when other food is scarce. Many parrots eat tropical fruits that are not available in the grocery store, for example Lorries eat nectar, insects, and pollen. Some larger species of parrot have been viewed in the wild eating clay and sometimes even carrion. Your bird will be healthier and live longer if his diet is supplemented with a variety of healthy foods from your kitchen and grocery.

Pet food companies sell food pellets that help provide a balanced diet. Birds may be suspicious of new food so introduce a variety of foods gradually. When selecting a size of pellet, match the size to the foods your bird prefers and consider the species the formula is designed to support. Sometimes mixing the pellets into seed or soaking them in juice or water and warming them increases their attractiveness. Adult birds that are accustomed to seeds can be difficult to switch to a healthy diet but the superior nutrition is well worth the effort. 

GROOMING: Birds preen and bathe to keep their feathers and skin in good condition. If your bird does not like being sprayed by a water bottle, he might enjoy sharing a shower with you or bathing in a shallow tub as long as he can move out of the water at will. Sport and plant misters often provide a fine enough spray of water to convince any bird of the enjoyment of a good soaking. Don't give up. Feather care is very important. 

If your bird breaks or removes his feathers during grooming you should mention this at a checkup with your veterinarian. Feather damage can be caused by disease or problems with nutrition and housing. Feather plucking can become a bad habit. Ask your veterinarian for advice.

TRIMMING FLIGHT FEATHERS: Large birds fly when food becomes scarce or in order to escape predators. Feather trimming of pet birds is used to keep birds from escaping, becoming injured, and developing behavior problems such as swooping down to bite house guests.

Feathers are made out of the same type of tissue as hair and fingernails. It is not painful to a bird to have his feathers trimmed however the bird must be held still which may frighten him. Trimmed feathers grow back in a few months. If you have not done this before, have an expert demonstrate. You can injure your bird by trimming too many feathers and you must never trim a growing feather which a professional can teach you to recognize.

There are several styles of feather trimming much like there are several styles of hair cut. You should expect the trim to allow your bird to flap to the ground without falling but not allow him to gain lift necessary for flight. Discuss the method that is best for your species of parrot and household needs with a veterinarian or bird shop owner.

When an adult bird that is accustomed to flying has his feathers trimmed, expect the bird to be quiet for a few days while he adjusts to the difference. He will notice the change in balance and may feel insecure perching and climbing. The bird will return to his usual level of confidence within a couple of days. You can avoid this adjustment period by keeping the feathers trimmed.

EXERCISE (Occupational Therapy): Birds need something to do all day. Birds that do not entertain themselves in a cage can develop behavior problems as well as injure themselves playing unsupervised. Opening fruit and chewing on wood meets some of a bird's needs. Pet stores sell toys and puzzles made for occupying a bird's time alone. My current favorite is a box of colored twisted paper called Carnival of Crinkles by Pets International packaged for small mammals.  I place it on top of my birds' cages and they spend hours pulling the small pieces of paper out of the prepared dispenser.  The crinkled paper also makes attractive bedding for the cage.